That Pet Blog That Pet Place Pet Blog

As popular as these pets are, understanding the proper diet of our guinea pigs and rabbits is often cause for confusion, especially in first time owners. I thought it would be beneficial to compose a break down of the foods required of guinea pigs and rabbits for the overall health of these fuzzy little eating machines!

Hays and Grasses

Pellets used to be the main (if not the only) food offered to guinea pigs and rabbits. Studies have shown however, that feeding only pellets can affect the health of the animal. Rabbits and guinea pigs are grazing animals that spend a lot of their day eating. So why aren’t they all round as watermelons? The grasses and shrubs that these animals feed on in the wild are very low in nutrition, so they must eat a lot of them to obtain the amount of nutrients needed each day. Since this grazing behavior is instinctive, our furry friends from the pet store continue to eat all day long just like their wild cousins, except captive animals are eating nutrient-concentrated pellets that can cause obesity if consumed in large amounts. This is why the main diet of any guinea pig or rabbit should be hay, primarily Timothy Hay, which is closest to what they would be feeding on in the wild. Large handfuls of hay every day will help keep your pet in grazing mode which will aid in alleviating boredom, wearing down teeth, and keeping the weight off. You can also occasionally offer Brome, Orchard Grass, Meadow Mix, and Alfalfa to mix things up. Fresh grasses from the yard are also OK (in small amounts) as long as the grass is collected from an area free of pesticides, runoff and pet waste. Be sure the picked grasses do not contain wild mushrooms or berries, and rinse it thoroughly before giving to your pets. Read More »

I want to conclude this look at popular first pets for kids with two common reptiles chosen for children and a word on setting up a child’s first aquarium. Though they may not be fuzzy and cuddly like other animals, these pets can be very fun and interesting for children and they can be terrific options for kids with allergies or those that like to look more than to touch. Read More »

Life as a zookeeper provided me with countless unforgettable experiences.  I place rearing orphaned mammals – creatures I never expected to see up close, much less handle – right at the top of my list.  I’ve had the great fortune to have raised a number of species (i.e. Snow Leopards, Gorillas, Wolves, Red Pandas), but it is the good-natured Capybara that I remember most fondly.

Observations in Venezuela

Largest of the world’s rodents, Capybaras inhabit river edges and flooded grasslands from Panama to northern Argentina.  Quite common on a cattle ranch in the Venezuelan llanos where I was involved in Green Anaconda research (please see Hunting Anacondas in the Venezuelan Llanos), I was able to spend a great deal of time observing them.

Near the ranch buildings, they were quite tame, even wandering through open doors on occasion.  The Capybaras that lived further out on the llanos, however, were entirely different creatures.  Their meat is considered a delicacy, and they have learned to charge headfirst into the water, uttering their strange “barks”, upon sighting people.

A Capybara Ruins my Film…

The Capybara is a highly social animal.  Females are very protective of their

young (I’ve seen them stand between intruders and their litter on many occasions), and the dominant male will try to hold off a threat while his harem flees.

Well, not always…while explaining this very behavior during the filming of a sequence on Capybaras, I was made to look foolish by a male who considered chivalry quite dead.  Approaching a group by boat and with my back to the Capybaras, I rambled on about the male’s soon-to-be-seen valor.  Noticing my colleagues laughing hysterically, I turned to see him disappearing into the brush, leaving his females and offspring unprotected and confused!

Capybaras as “Pets”

Baby Capybaras, or “Chiguires”, as they are known in Venezuela, are often taken in and raised until their care becomes too much of a burden (multiply your Guinea Pig’s droppings a thousand-fold, add the need for a pond, and you’ll see why they are not ideal house pets!).  After that, they are kept at semi-liberty – feeding largely on their own but returning to their adopted families regularly.  On many Venezuelan ranches, Jaguar, Puma, Caiman and Anacondas render life dangerous for a solitary Capybara unschooled in the ways of the wild, and I imagine that some meet their end when they wander too far afield.

I cannot recommend a Capybara as a pet – their teeth are not to be believed, and throughout their range stories persist of hunters and horses killed by bites that severed leg arteries.  And no matter how well adjusted, any wild animal remains wild – those that become very calm are in a sense all the more dangerous, as it is easy to forget that they are not domesticated.  However, cared for in a zoo setting, by well-experienced keepers, Capybaras make ideal animals for use in educational programs.  They are just as responsive as their cousins, the Guinea Pigs, and readily bond to people who care for them…and it’s hard to put into words the looks on the faces of children when a “tame” Capybara enters the classroom!

Learning More

If you are interested in working with wild mammals, consider becoming a licensed Wildlife Rehabilitator.  Learn more here.

I was surprised to learn that a small population of Capybaras – released pets, no doubt – thrives in northern Florida.  For more info, please see this article.

I love being outdoors. Walking, hiking, gardening, exploring, I do it all and it’s usually with at least one dog to accompany me. My pets and I can become pretty oblivious as we meander through grassy meadows and majestic forests as we try to take it all in. But, as we wander, it’s important to keep potential dangers to pets (and to yourself) in mind to avoid what could be a fatal encounter – particularly encounters with one of the various venomous snakes native to North America. I don’t believe that snakes are malicious or evil creatures, and I know that they won’t seek me or my dog out to attack, but the thought of a chance meeting in a remote field or woodland can be a distinct possibility when you explore the wild. In such a situation it pays to be informed. Read More »

Spring has (finally) arrived and fleas have returned along with it. You may have heard recently in the news that there has been an increase of the number of adverse reactions to over-the-counter “spot on” flea and tick treatments. The EPA has taken notice and they are starting to take action.

What was the problem?

Flea and tick preventative maintenance is an important part of your pet’s health. It’s important to safe guard your pet against pests that can carry deadly diseases like Lyme disease. However, it is also important to remember that these medications are still pesticides and should be handled with care. The EPA found that some dogs, usually smaller breeds, and cats could have potentially harmful reactions to spot-on flea and tick treatments. Reactions ranged from skin irritation to more severe medical conditions like seizures, and in a few cases, even death.  Most of the reactions were caused by “overdose” or using too much of the topical product for the size of the pet. Reactions in cats were typically the result of exposure to a dog- specific formula, either accidentally or through incorrect usage of the product.  While the EPA mainly investigated “spot-on” flea and tick treatments, they recommend using caution with all flea and tick products, including shampoos, collars, and sprays/powders.

What are they going to do to solve it?

To reduce the number of reactions and eliminate misuse of the products, the EPA is now enforcing tighter restrictions on ingredients and pursuing labeling changes and guidelines. The most significant change they are suggesting is making more dose sizes available. Instead of 3 different sizes of the medication, there might be 5, introducing a narrower pet weight range per medication.  They are also pushing to make the packaging vastly different on dog and cat products to eliminate confusion, and other labeling changes to eliminate confusion. The EPA is also going to start requiring clinical trials and observations on new formulas.

What can I do to ensure my pets’ safety?

Consult your vet. Find out which brand they recommend for your pets and situation. This is extremely important if your pet is weak, elderly, sick, on medication, pregnant or nursing. You should also carefully read all instructions before applying flea and tick treatments, especially if you have not used the product before. When purchasing a flea and tick treatments be sure to know the current weight of your pets to select the correct product.

There are some precautions you can take to help control your pet’s exposure to fleas and ticks, too. Vacuuming regularly and washing both you and your pet’s bedding regularly can help to prevent populations from establishing in your house. You can alter your yard to be less tick-friendly and discourage deer from visiting.

See the EPA’s article on taking care of fleas and ticks on your pet for more information on safety and what to do if you suspect your pet is having a reaction to flea and tick medication.

It’s no secret that your pets need fresh clean drinking water every day for optimum health. It’s also no secret that cats and some dogs are very finicky about, well, pretty much everything! With the warmer weather approaching I want to talk about your pet’s drinking habits.

Water is an essential ingredient to life. All animals need it to help flush out toxins and to keep organs hydrated. Cats especially need to take in an adequate amount of water to prevent kidney problems, most notably kidney stones and kidney failure.

The amount of water that your pet needs to drink daily depends on his or her weight, activity level, and diet. Dogs are generally pretty good about regulating their water intake. As long as fresh, clean water is provided they will usually drink the amount their body requires. Keep in mind that with the warmer temperatures around the corner, your dog should also be drinking more to stay fully hydrated.

Cats get most of their water intake from their food. In the wild this is not much of an issue since raw meat contains up to 70% water. Dry food, on the other hand, only contains about 10% moisture. Some cats will supplement their food with extra drinking water and others are a little pickier.

If you are having trouble getting your cat interested in water there are a few things you can try.  Change the type of pet bowl or the location of the bowl. Some cats prefer ceramic (lead-free glazed, of course) over metal bowls and vice versa. Other cats may be picky about the location of their water dish. Be sure it is far from the litter box and out of direct sunlight. You might also try a pet fountain. Clean, fresh, running water might be more interesting for your cat, while others will appreciate the water being filtered (thus tastier) and kept cooler. Finally, consider adding a wet food to your cat’s diet, or add water to your cats’ dry food. Wet cat foods usually contain around 80% water. Just be sure to adjust your portions of dry food to ensure you aren’t over feeding your cat.

Any sudden change in behavior can be cause for concern. Contact your vet if your pets’ drinking habits change suddenly; if they starting drinking an excessive amount of water, or stop drinking it altogether it could be a sign of a serious illness.

So, in Part 1 of this article we covered a couple of the small pets that may be considered when you’re looking for your child’s first pet.  Welcome back for Part two where we’ll move on to some slightly larger animals that may also be considered. Read More »

Just about every child will want to have a pet of their own at some point as they grow up, whether it’s because a friend wins a new goldfish at the fair, or a movie featuring talking guinea pigs comes to theaters. It’s important to consider, before buying your child a pet, that caring for a living thing is a big job, no matter how small the animal may be. All pets can feel pain, loneliness, boredom, and fear and will suffer if not cared for properly. It is a good idea to research the pet your child is interested in to make sure it is right for them before bringing a the new pet home. There are several popular first time pets that parents visiting us inquire about most often.  I thought it might be helpful to provide an introduction and a brief overview of what to expect from these animals, beginning with hamsters, gerbils, guinea pigs and rats. Read More »

So now that Spring has sprung (YAY!), pet owners across the nation may find themselves dealing with more than foul weather and slick roads. The warmth of the sun and the extended daylight becons the emergence of dormant wildlife from their cozy winter dens. Perhaps none is so dreaded than those with tell-tale black and white markings and unmistakeable scent – the skunk.

Mojo and the Fog of Eternal Stench

I know a Great Pyranees named Mojo that has a particular fondness for wildlife. He can often be seen roaming the farm fields and woods edge in search of something to make friends with (or harass) whether it be a herd of deer or a plump groundhog basking too far away from his hole. Unfortunately for his family he doesn’t discriminate – he’s happy to greet anything he comes across, even the local skunks. I often wonder if he likes the smell or if his gentle, fun-seeking nature just makes him keep trying to get aquainted with them. Regardless of his motives, it seems as if he constantly reeks of his overnight encounters, much to the dismay of his family. My guess is he’ll never learn or accept that the fascinating striped “cats” don’t want to be his friend, and the noxious perfume is supposed to be a hint. Read More »

Now let’s talk a little about what you’ll need if you want to keep rats as pets.

All in all, rats need large wire enclosures with plenty of levels or lofts for climbing. You may want to look at cages designed for ferrets. Cages designed for hamsters and other small rodents will not be adequate for the much larger and stronger rat. The ideal cage for two adult rats will be at least 2ft L x 1ft W x 3ft H, but this is the minimum and bigger is always better. Make sure the cage bars are less than one inch apart so that small rats can’t get out. If their head fits through, their body will too! Also keep in mind that the size of the cage depends on the number of rats you plan to keep. They are very active animals and will utilize all the space you are willing to provide. Read More »